The Goose Creek Valley at the headwaters of the Rio Grande River was formed 40 million years ago by one of the largest volcanic eruptions to occur on the planet. Over the millennia, as the land cooled and settled, what was left behind were natural hot springs and mineral pools, as well as 6 miles of mountain stream brimming with trout. The lush valley floor surrounded by cliffs and mountain peaks, became abundant with wildlife, natural grasses, and wildflowers. So rich was this valley that when it was discovered by the Ute Indians a thousand years ago, they deemed it "sacred" and guarded it as zealously as they guarded their horses and hunting lands. They referred to the hot springs and mineral pools as "Little Medicine" and used them for healing as well as the performing of ceremonial and religious rites. In the 1800’s, silver was discovered in the surrounding area and miners and homesteaders moved forward building a railhead and hotel near the hot springs as a commercial venture. Located along the Rio Grande River, the Wagon Wheel Gap Hot Springs Hotel began welcoming visitors in the 1880’s and quickly became known throughout the region for the therapeutic properties of its waters. As the clock rolled over into the 1900’s, a Civil War hero and railroad baron named General William Palmer purchased the property. The timing coincided with the a popular "spa era" in Europe and Palmer’s vision was to create a grand and elegant resort capable of attracting the finest of European society as well as those enthusiasts throughout North America. He hired Thomas MacLaren, a member of the Royal Academy of Architecture in London, and the vision and Wagon Wheel Gap Development Company was launched. By 1906 the "palatial bath house" was built along with a hotel, three long Adirondack-style bedroom cabins, and a livery stable. The property quickly became a popular stop for those traveling on the Denver and Rio Grande Rail Line. By the 1930’s, those visiting the resort were becoming attracted to additional recreational benefits of the area and, while clients still came to "take the baths" for healing their ills, the stunning trout steam meandering along the valley floor was increasingly taking their attention. Then, with the discovery of antibiotics and the advancement of modern medicine, people ceased using spa resorts as hospitals and treatment centers. The "golden spa era" quickly died leaving the Wagon Wheel Gap Hot Springs Resort out of fashion as a therapeutic destination. Relying and building on its enduring reputation, Wagon Wheel Hot Springs became Wagon Wheel Ranch and a trout fishing destination was born. By the 1940’s, a new wave of popularity struck the country – "The Dude Ranch Vacation." At this point, the Wagon Wheel Ranch was in a perfect position to fit the bill. Horses had long since been replaced as modes of transportation but, like the trout in the stream, they quickly became part of the vacation experience and part of the fun. Children learned to ride, overnight pack trips were taken to the high country, and as with any ranch of the time, cattle were worked. At this point in the story cattle became an integral part of the valley landscape. And, as with any working ranch cattle, they all needed branding. The name Wagon Wheel Ranch, however, posed a problem in designing a brand. Two W’s were a bit much to work with. The present owner, Arthur Sharp, more attached to the ranch than the name, came up with a solution that worked for the cattle. Given that the name "Wagon Wheel" had "two" double U’s that were essentially 4 U’s, why not just rename the business the 4U Ranch and brand the cattle 4UR. So, after 100 years of "Wagon Wheel" the property became known as the 4UR Ranch and its devoted clientele, many who by this time had been coming for 30 years, unruffled by change, continued to return yearly to the same rooms built at the turn of the century. In the late 1950’s, the 4UR was purchased by the Denver-based Phipps family, owners of the famous Denver Broncos football team. The Phipps also owned the nearby La Garita Guest Ranch but had enough energy and personality to manage the two successful properties at once. Historic family films show the Phipps entertaining their guests with costume parties, elk hunts, and even arranging for a pheasant hunt which, given that there are no pheasants in the area, was a feat in itself. By 1970, the Phipps family decided to concentrate solely on La Garita Ranch and instructed their manager, Chuck Davlin, to find a buyer for the now named 4UR Ranch. Chuck knew that Charles Leavell, a Texan who owned one of the world’s largest construction companies, made a hobby of buying and selling ranches, as well as fly fishing. Thinking it was a perfect fit, he called Mr. Leavell with the offer of the 4UR, which by now was one of the most desirable properties in all of Colorado. Mr. Leavell told the manager in no uncertain words "No!", he was not interested in owning another ranch and ended the conversation. However, the thought of that beautiful six miles of trout stream started working on the mind of the gregarious contractor and by early the following morning Davlin’s phone was ringing with a call from Leavell. "Damn you, Chuck!" Leavell said. "I didn’t sleep a wink all night thinking about that place! I’ll take it!" Today, the 4UR is still owned by the Leavell family. Pete Leavell, along with his wife Lindsey and sister Mary Lee, continue the traditions and legacy of this history-rich valley. While the "palatial bath house" is no longer in use, the hot springs pool and larger swimming pool heated by the hot springs is still central to the ranch experience. The horseback riding of the dude ranch days has been replaced with a program of Natural Horsemanship, still covering the almost 4000 acres of trails. The fishing along Goose Creek is still enjoyed on the traditional "British Beat " system, where the 6 miles of stream is divided into 15 private stretches ranging in length from 1/3 to ½ a mile. Evenings in the dining room, a lottery is held for the following day’s allotment of private stream. Every room is awarded a stretch, but the lottery determines the selection order. The Leavells have been passionate about maintaining the history and traditions of this spectacular piece of the West. Preserving such a long and varied history is no small task, but it’s one the Leavell Family relishes. From the sacred land of the Utes, the grand European vision of the General, the adventuresome spirit of the dude ranch, to the stories of families returning for five generations, the Leavells and those they work with, enthusiastically continue the legacy. They are privileged to share the 4UR as not only a sense of place, but a place in history, and invite you to join them. |